Mystical Marrakesh

The Farthest West (al-Maghrib al-Awsaṭ aka المغرب الأوسط) is my first stop of the year on the sixth continent of the world. Morocco was a protectorate of both France and Spain until 1956 and their influence is still visible today. Casablanca is a short plane trip (3 hours) from several major European cities. Thanks to the €132 round-trip ticket from NYC to Milan (courtesy of a mistake from a Norwegian website) we purchased last year we used it as a gateway for our spring break in Africa.

We had a short layover in Casablanca on the way to Marrakesh (note: the immediate boarding area in CMN airport is tiny and crowded, I’d suggest lingering at the shops and restaurants in the terminal until 10 minutes before heading to the gate).  Upon arrival at the airport in Marrakesh we easily found the driver the riad arranged for us.  Staying at a riad is the way to go in Morocco.  After a day of sightseeing in the bustling town, it’s nice to unwind in the peaceful garden within, meet other travelers, and have a “homemade” meal.  Our riad always had traditional hot mint tea (aka Berber whiskey) available when we returned for the evening.

I was amazed at the ease and swiftness of our driver navigating the streets. There were two and four wheeled vehicles, horses, carriages, donkeys pulling wagons, mopeds, and pedestrians all sharing the path. Everyone had acute instincts and expertise in predicting how another will react, when, and who needs to give way.  There were times where our car had to pull off to the side before narrow entrances at a bab (aka gate) to allow oncoming cars and school kids to pass on the road.

Top five notables:

(1) It’s helpful to know a few words of French (F), Arabic (A), or Berber (B) when you are there. Your efforts are appreciated and it goes a long way, and at the very least you will be rewarded with a kind smile:

(F) combien coûte? = how much?; (A) shukran = thank you; (B) balek! (usually when someone is passing from behind with a donkey or cart) = mind your back!

(2) Marrakesh is called the “Red City” after the red sandstone walls built by Ben Youssef an Almoravid sultan who expanded the city and its influence greatly during his reign. The architecture here is exotic with its geometric patterns, bright bold colors, and elaborate wooden doors. One of the top places to visit is Madrasa Ben-Youssef, the largest madrasa in Morocco and is an exemplary building with regional features and zelij (a form of tile mosaic), ornamental Islamic calligraphy, open court yard and a grand shallow pool.  I find it interesting that according to the laws of Islam, none of the decorations can depict animals or humans – everything we saw is of a geometric design.  We went to a few madrasas on this trip, and Madrasa Ben-Youssef was the most impressive and elegant.

(3)  Drink fresh squeezed orange juice (4 dhs per cup = USD $0.50 as of April 2014)- it’s a ritual for anyone who visits the Square. By default, you will have to finish the glass they give you at the cart and return it, or you can ask for a plastic cup and they will give it to you with a lid and straw (for an extra dirham).  Eating head to tail and everything in between from the food stalls and mechoui (lamb) alley.  Brain, head, tongue, mixed fruit smoothie, crazy sandwich, snails etc. you name it. Go where the locals eat, especially when there are people waiting for a stool or on a queue. One evening we joined a mob of people surrounding a counter at a hole in the wall a few streets from the square and got a freshly made assorted fruit smoothie (dates, avocado, kiwi, strawberry… ) – we walked by again about an hour later, it was still pretty early in the night and the stall already sold out and closed up for the evening.

(4) While you are there, linger around and people watching from a terrace above Jemaa el-Fnaa (the square). We heard prayer calls 5 times a day; observe locals mingling with tourists, mystical story tellers, monkey handlers, street vendors, henna artists, and snake charmers. We sat for hours at Le Grand Balcon Cafe Glacier enjoying the view and sounds (price of admission: a bottled soft drink for 20 dhs USD $2.50 – usually 5 to 10 dhs elsewhere).

(5) Bartering is a must in the vibrant souks – after a few hours we were accustomed to shooing solicitors away ignoring people because they were all demanding our attention (like the restaurants in New York’s Little Italy). Tip: start haggling at 30% of the price the salesman first gives you. Be prepared to walk away. The shopkeepers can tell when you love something but(!) it works both ways, and you can tell when they REALLY need to make a sale. You can’t win them all, you win more on some – you win less on others. I find that it’s not pleasant (for me) to shop under pressure but there are definitely hidden gems and bargains to be found.

The town is colorful, lively, and mesmerizing. One day I will return to this part of the world, spend some time by the water in nearby Essaouira and explore further Marrakesh’s intricately designed and stuccoed architecture. However, after a few days I’ve had enough of the constant sound of scooters whizzing by and ready for the next leg of the trip. We took the ONCF (train) to Fes.